Love is in the air, and it smells like coffee.

I do like coffee. I wouldn't say I was addicted to it, but is there anything bad about coffee? It's warm, delicious and it has caffeine. I like mine with a little milk and I like it in a MUG. You know when you go to someone's house and they don't really drink coffee, but they know you do, so they ask if you want any? They procede to dig out their coffee maker from the deep dark corner of their kitchen counter, full of gadgets they rarely use, and make you a piping hot cup of jo. You appreciate their thoughfulness but you take that first sip and your mouth feels like a desert. I mean, I'm still going to drink it, but a huge shot of espresso isn't as glorious as a truely tall American coffee, especially if it features a fall or winter flavor. Gingerbread coffee? Yes, please. From my last post, if you read it....I mentioned I was going on an little adventure to Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. I went with Sam and Melissa. We started out on a train to Budapest. It takes over three hours to get there from Nyiregyhaza, but that trip is a piece of cake (mmm.. cake goes with coffee) compared to the bus rides we took to Zagreb, Mostar and Sarajevo.

Unfortunately, we didn't spend much time in Budapest, but we'll have more time to explore that city another time. We left before dawn to catch a bus to Zagreb and spent a couple of days there walk, walk, walk, walking around their interesting old town and up their historical hills. There are two main hills that have significance in the history of Zagreb. I'll share some with you. These hills, Gradec and Kaptol, were first settled by Slavs, but in 1094, the Hungarian King Ladislas established the Zagreb diocese on Kaptol hill. The population on both hills were increasing until a Mongol invasion 1242 swept through the area. The hills became a wasteland until King Bela encouraged (mostly German) artisans into Gradec, halted unecessary obligations on his people and built walls to protect from future invasions. Unfortunately, Kaptol stayed under the church's jurisdiction, which created rivalry between the two towns. Their economic and political interests were constantly clashing during the 14th and 15th centuries. Kaptol also began fortifying its city for fear of the Turks in 1478. By the end of the 18th century, Zagreb's population fell to 2800 as several fires and plagues diminished the towns and the Turks rampaged through Croatia. Finally, Zagreb matured economically and politically. The two towns worked together to set up a clothing trade, held annual fairs to attract more traders and supported educational and cultural pursuits. Fortunately, Zagreb escaped much of the destruction of the World Wars and declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991.

Well....that might have been more than you wanted to know. I thought it was interesting anyway. We had coffee at an adorable little place called Cup and Cake with homemade whipped cream on top. It was probably the best cup I had all trip, really. The cafes and shops are squished into or under the 18th century buildings in the Upper Town where we also visited the Zagreb Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The markets are full of fresh produce, of which we bought sheep cheese, wine and roasted chestnuts. All were delicious.

We hopped on another bus to Mostar, arriving in the wee hours of the morning. You would think the bus would stop at the BUS STATION, near to where our accomodations for the night were, but alas it did not. Having no idea where we were, we opted to take a taxi to our hostel's address. We still have no idea where we were dropped off, but thankfully we had a very nice hostess who gave us apple pie and coffee! Mostar isn't the most popular tourist destination, so we asked her what to do and where to go. This place is interesting because there are still remnants of the Bosnian War evident throughout the city. Everyone was rebuilding, and I'm sure they will be rebuilding for several more years. Bullet holes peppered abandoned buildings and houses that were located right next to brand new establishments. You can't walk through their old town without seeing the Old Bridge, or Stari Most. It was originally built by the Turks in 1566, destroyed in 1993 and rebuilt in 2004. We noticed people who were prepared to jump off the bridge. I didn't think the water was that deep, but apparently you can pay these men from the Mostar diving team to jump off. We didn't pay anyone to do it because personally I didn't want to see anyone die. Mostar holds an annual diving competition from the bridge. It's dangerous and draws in all kinds of people to Mostar during the summer.

We also took a little day trip to Blagaj after figuring out the confusing public transportation timetables. There is a spot where the Buna river is fed from a huge underground spring at the base of a cliff. This spot is where we had our lunch of grapes, bread a molasses. Why molasses? Apparently we couldn't resist the most enthusiastic street merchant of Mostar the day before. It is pretty good molasses. In fact, I'm eating a molasses cookie right now.

After drinking too much Turkish coffee, we rode on yet another bus to Sarajevo. I think this was my favorite destination due to its historical significance. This is where Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated by the Bosnian Serb Gavrilo Princip. This, among other tensions growing in Europe, started the First World War. I just wish I would have at least visited their museum. Throughout Sarajevo, you may see several bullet holes as well. Some are filled in with red paint, meaning it was where someone was shot and killed. I don't know how many mosques there were, but there must have been more than 100. Sarajevo is known as the European Jerusalem. During the day, we could hear their call to prayer and men and women would gather in their mosques. It was sad for me to see the huge cemeteries full of muslims who didn't believe Christ died on the cross for them. The locals were very nice. They have no animostiy towards Americans since the U.S. government helped end the war there in 1995 with the Dayton Agreement. It was strange to see several people walking around with military escorts. Nobody else flinched. There were also so many stray cats and dogs running around. We were told that there weren't any animal shelters, so they just ran around the forest and throughout the city. Speaking of the forest, may favorite part of the whole trip was when we visited the abandoned bobsled track from the 14th winter olympics. We took a taxi again because we had read too many horror stories of people hiking up the hill. It would have taken us all day. We got there at a great time when the sun was setting. We also got some pretty sweet shots of the city skyline.

After a few days in Sarajevo, drinking strong, grainy Turkish coffee every day, it was time for us to make our way back home. Thankfully, we didn't experience any problems crossing country borders. I got some pretty cool new stamps in my passport! I'm glad to be back in Nyiregyhaza. I think the students are glad to be back in school too. Tomorrow is my birthday! I'll be 23, which is an age that really has no significance, but who doesn't like birthdays? I recieved a box of goodies from my family. I already opened it...I couldn't wait. I loved what they gave me, including a sweet coloring book. I'll also be able to drink some delicious pumpkin spiced laté in celebration. So tomorrow, maybe you could raise that tall cup of coffee and send out a prayer for God's plans for me, and thanksgiving for His many blessings. I'll be eating molasses cookies and apple crisp.