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Farsang

  • Writer: audreymehl
    audreymehl
  • Feb 10, 2017
  • 3 min read

If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.

- J.R.R. Tolkein

I thought I would take this opportunity to tell you about Farsang, or carnival time in Hungary. Technically, it starts on Epiphany and ends on Ash Wednesday. Farsang is celebrated by holding noisy parades and eating as much rich food as you can. The aim is to scare off winter and welcome spring. Celebrations are held in all primary schools, but the most popular celebration is in the city of Mahács.

Mohács is one place where you can see the Busójárás in full action at the end of Farsang. The event is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage and was first celebrated by the Šokci, an ethnic Croatian minority population living in Mohács. According to the official story, the roots of the festival date back to the Battle of Mohács in 1526. Legend has it that the villagers dressed up as monsters and drove away the invading Turkish army.

The most exciting feature for anyone who attends is the men in scary wooden masks with exaggerated facial features and large horns. They dress up in sheep’s skin and run around making scary noises. Women are especially targeted, but in a playful way. The monsters gather together and the town burns a coffin to say goodbye to winter and hello to spring. There is always live dancing and crafting/art stalls for anyone to enjoy. Master buso mask-makers believe the mask isn’t simply a change of outer appearance – instead, it alters the person behind the mask. Each mask is crafted specifically for each buso, or person. There are few female busos, but women who participate in the festival usually dress up in clothing reminiscent of female Ottoman Turks. During carnival time, all rules are ignored. Some claim that the excess of the celebration was key to the small Šokci population’s survival. Take that as you will.

For people who decide not to go to Mohác, there are plenty of things to do. Masquerade balls are held all over Hungary where lots of interesting food and drinks are served. The last three days of Farsang (or Farsang Farka) are the most exciting. Straw scarecrows are crafted then burned, again, to send winter back to its cave so spring can be enjoyed. For the more traditional celebrants, the Lent is a time to fast and prepare for spring. Fat Tuesday is widely celebrated, and many restaurants in Budapest serve their customers for half price. You might need a reservation though.

Speaking of food, carnival donuts are a must during the

carnival season. Filled with fat and sugar, they are bound to set your new years diet resolution back at least a month. There’s also a drink called Krampampuli, or “the drink of the Devil.” It’s alcoholic and has been popular with the Hungarian middle class since the mid 1800s. It is made from a special kind of pálinka. A grate is placed over the drink where sugar soaked in rum is placed. The rum is set on fire and the sugar slowly drips into the alcohol. Seasonings like cinnamon and cloves are added as well as oranges, raisins or figs. Traditionally, it’s served out of a big tin bowl, and everyone drinks out of small tin chalices. I haven’t tried it, but I’m told it is nice.

Of course, in schools, the festivities are more low-key. My school recently had a costume competition/party for the lower primary grades. There were lots of Star Wars characters and princesses. My personal favorite was a boy who dressed up as a milk carton. There were soldiers, witches, Hawaiians, gymnasts, everything. In two weeks, the upper primary grades will have a celebration. I am to serve as a judge, once again. I’m looking forward to it!

In other news, I recently went to my cousin Peter’s promotion to major in Budapest. It was a very cool experience. A small party of Americans joined together on the wall of the Fisherman’s Bastion (picture a castle) for the ceremony. I don’t think I’ll ever have another experience like that. Unfortunately, I had to leave that evening. Fortunately, I joined another group of American’s, and then some, for a retreat in Sopron, a city on the western edge of Hungary by. It was nice to see the Central Europe team of MCN and refreshing to meet and talk about ideas and experiences we’ve had. We also had a lot of fun. It was just what I needed to gear up for the rest of this semester!

Until next time!


 
 
 

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