Homo Hungaricus

Where did I leave off last? Oh yes, I had just celebrated Christmas and was heading to Slovakia to visit a friend who spent last Christmas in my house back in Missouri. Let me tell you something. Slovakians know how to throw a party just as well as Hungarians can. The first night in Slovakia, I met everyone is Klara’s little village, whether I liked it or not and danced to upbeat gypsy music and classic rock songs until my feet couldn’t take it anymore. Later in the week, Klara and her mother took me skiing in the Tatra mountains, the highest in the Carpathian mountain range. Now, I am not a good skier, but it was a beautiful day and I was up for an adventure so I struggled through the day and did many, many pushups, watching those adorable/wretched little kids ski past me with the greatest of ease. All I could say by the end was that I got a better workout than anyone else on the slopes. Slovakia is usually covered in snow during this time of year. The snow we skied on was natural, but it was basically the only white stuff in the whole of Slovakia at the time.

I visited the Slovenské Národné Múzeum in Bojnice, which is actually a really cool castle filled with art, history and torture instruments! The torture section was extremely creepy, so I won’t go into that, but the Bojnice castle has actually been a National Cultural Monument since 1950. The castle went over many renovations, originally being built out of timber, taking on the Gothic style, then the Renaissance style and finally, the Baroque style. The last guy to live there was a man named Count Ján František Pálfi. His hobby was art collecting, and fortunately this castle was one of the very few that wasn’t completely destroyed during the World Wars in this area of Europe. The collection of art in the museum included Marie Antoinette, her husband Louis XVI and her brother Maximilian Habsburg from the 18th century. Another painting done by Daniel Schimidelli in 1775 depicts a mourning Maria Theresa. Other pieces of art date anywhere from the 16th to 19th centuries and include landscapes, figural compositions and religious motifs. I even got to say hello to the elaborate Pálfi family sarcophagi.

Needless to say, I had a lot of fun. I had more fun as we toured the Domica Cave in Kečovo! It was right on the Slovakia/Hungarian border. The cave itself is 25 km long and was filled with small lakes, bats and huge stalactites and dripstone. It was actually warmer in the cave than it was outside. I ran to the car and we drove through the Slovak Paradise (Slovensky raj) a mountain range in east Slovakia. Hopefully I can go back in the spring to hike in its beautiful forests. My New Years celebration was extremely relaxed as I watched movies and played games with Klara’s family. I was glad to be with good-humored people who understood what it was like to be away from home during the holidays.

I made it back to Nyiregyhaza and geared up for school to start again. I guess I’ve been spoiled with having three weeks off for Christmas break during high school and college. I begrudgingly set to work planning activities for the students at school. I was pleasantly surprised to find teachers and students alike in good spirits when Monday rolled around. I hope these good feelings last! Head, shoulders, knees and toes anyone?

I think it’s about time I told you a little more about the Hungarian culture that I have grown to…tolerate. I’m kidding! There are lots of Hungarians that I really love and appreciate. Their ways are different than mine though. I received a book for Christmas from an English teacher at school. It’s called Homo hungaricus, by János Lackfi, and it is hilarious. Everything that has crossed my mind about Hungarians and more is included in this book. An excerpt from this book reads as follows: The first king of the Magyars was Saint Stephen who spread Christianity rather thickly with a sharpened knife thought his kingdom and had a nonbeliever nephew cut into quarters and his entrails skewered on the gates of four separate cities across the land. An 18 warning sign was displayed by the side of the quartered remains to protect underage TV viewers. ( p. 7)

Funny? I think yes. Times back then were pretty barbaric, and obviously this kind of cruelty isn’t practiced anymore. Saint Stephen died with no heir and left the kingdom in the hands of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Interesting choice since she is also dead. Of course, there are a lot of things that Hungarians can be proud of. Their rolling plains have inspired many a Magyar poet to write long lyrics in a language that nobody else in the world is able to understand.

Hungary boasts many curative spas and Europe’s largest freshwater lake in Central Europe (Lake Balaton). Around this lake can be found several medieval ruins and vineyards, making it a huge tourist attraction. Hungarians don’t drink wine from other countries because they already know that their wine is the best. Those ruins are all thanks to their Austrian friends who annihilated all the castles and fortresses to quell Hungary’s constant rebellion. Hungarians are still pretty good at horseback archery, occasionally winning archery championships in places like Asia and Africa. Fortunately the Hungarian ancestors took up farming their land instead of constantly being at battle with their neighbors. As far as the agriculture economy goes, the privatization of land (1990s) created positive changes that employed more people, helped to increase family income and supplied food for the population. They mostly produce grains and meat. Unfortunately for my girlish figure, this is also mostly what they eat.

This seems like a pretty good place to stop for now. I’ll tell you some more about the interesting and comical Magyar culture next time. If you don’t want to read about it, send me some hate mail. Here's a picture to remind you that I do still teach and stuff. Head, shoulders, keens and toes anyone?